Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrians professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbing in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a route, Madame Ching.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the
climbing gym in
Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor . In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.
In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,
For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.
In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.
Rock climbing
On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the route
Hades at
Nassereith,
Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.
On October 22, 2017, she climbed
La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario,
Spain), widely considered to be a route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade.
In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of
Madame Ching (which she named after
Ching Shih) in
Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
|
| Lead | 18 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 13 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 35 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | 15 | 33 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | - | - | - | - |
Climbing World Championships
|
| Lead | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 8 | - | - | - |
Climbing European Championships
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
- * La Planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (Spain) - October 22, 2017 - World's first-ever female ascent of a 9b route.
- * Madame Ching - Tyrol Austria - December 2020 - World's first-ever new 9b route created by a female.
- * Pure Dreaming - Arco (Italy) - June 2019
- * Era Vella - Margalef (Spain) - April 2015
- * Big Hammer - Pinswang (Austria) - November 2014
- * Hades - Götterwandl (Austria) - September 6, 2014
- * Hercules - Götterwandl (Austria) - October 2014 - First ascent
- * Ingravids Extension - Santa Linya (Spain) - November 2010
- * Claudio Café - Terra Promessa (Italy) - 2007
- * White Zombie - Baltzola Cave (Spain) - 2009
- * Strelovod - Misja Pec (Slovenia) - 2008
- * Bodybuilding - Bürs (Austria) - 2007
- * Nobody is Perfect - Bürs (Austria) - 2007
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routes
- * Skyline - Bürs (Austria) - 2006
[[Boulder problems/" itemprop="url" title="Wiki: Bouldering">Bouldering
- * Fragile steps - Rocklands (South Africa) - August 2014
See also
-
List of grade milestones in rock climbing
-
History of rock climbing
-
Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
External links
